Ghost Ranch Hike: Chimney Rock Trail

Jim and I spent last weekend in Santa Fe. Some of you that have been following my blog may remember that this little road trip was planned shortly after we went to the Denver Art Museum in April to see the traveling Georgia O'Keeffe exhibit. I wanted to see the beautiful New Mexican landscapes she painted with my own eyes. Ghost Ranch in Abiquiu is about an hour north of Santa Fe. This is where Georgia O'Keeffe spent many summers painting and it where we went to hike last weekend.

The drive from Santa Fe to Abiquiu was gorgeous. I knew we were in for something special as we headed deeper into the red rock canyon and approached the towering wooden Ghost Ranch sign. We stopped to take a few pictures at the entrance and then headed down the dirt road toward the welcome center. We went inside to check in and find out where the trailhead was located. There are three hiking trails at Ghost Ranch: Chimney Rock, Box Canyon, and Kitchen Mesa. I had done some research prior to the trip and really wanted to do the Chimney Rock Trail, which happens to be the most popular one. The trail climbs from 6,500 to 7,100 feet and is about 3 miles round trip.

Beautiful drive from Santa Fe to Abiquiu!

Entering Ghost Ranch

Before heading on the trail we stopped at our car to change into our hiking shoes, put on our hats and sunglasses, grab our water, and cover ourselves in sunscreen. The temperature was well in the 90s and there is no shade in the desert so hydration and sun protection are key. We were ready to begin!

Chimney Rock

When we got to the Chimney Rock trail there was a box that contained trail guides for hikers and in return, a sign asked for those who took one to make a small donation. Jim emptied his pockets of all the change he had and made a deposit and we got our guide. It was a handy reference as it advised us to look out for numbered stakes on the trail for the best views and it had resourceful information corresponding to each stake number. It was like having a personal guide. Jim carried this booklet and it was clear he would be the official trail guide on this journey. I would look out for the stake numbers and he would read to me from the guide. Of course, Jim had to insert his humor on the tour naming each stake number after a different kind of meaty steak. He would say something like "ahhh, steak #7- a fine 6 month aged porterhouse." He got a chuckle out of me every time. We learned a lot about the geology of the area and the plant life from the guide.

Anthill made by harvester ants. Plants are absent from the hill- the ants comb the surface and eat, remove or destroy any seeds or seedlings they find.

Cholla Cactus- the stems are folded like an accordion.

Rounded sandstone cliffs of the Entrada Formation- fossil sand dunes from the Middle Jurassic Period

Straight over the stake are capped pinnacles called hoodoos. They consist of relatively soft rock topped by harder, less easily eroded stone that protects each column from the elements.

Here the printed trail guide told us that the small cliff above is the Todilto Formation. Here the Todilto is dark, thinly bedded limestone rich in organic matter that has only been partially decayed. We were instructed to pick up a piece, break it open, and smell the aroma. It was very faint, but it smelled like sulfur to us.

We saw many ancient Juniper trees- the oldest of these trees have survived several centuries growing in an environment of high winds, extreme temps, and aridity. I had to stop to hug one! :)

Pedernal by Georgia O'Keeffe

As we made our way toward Chimney Rock, which we could see in the distance, we also had a great view of the Pedernal behind us, a very distinctive mesa that was the subject of many of Georgia O'Keeffe's paintings. She  once said "It's my private mountain, It belongs to me. God told me if I painted it enough, I could have it." After her death in March, 1986, her assistant, Juan Hamilton, carried her ashes to the summit and cast them to the wind. So a promise was kept. 

Cerro Pedernal, Georgia O'Keeffe's mountain

Cerro Pedernal is behind me

I can see why Georgia O'Keeffe was so inspired to paint these landscapes. The colors were beautiful. The deep red clay, the, gray, purple, pastel green and salmon colored silts, and the pretty blue sky make up the perfect palette for any artist inspired by nature. I admire those who can paint and draw- I can barely draw a stick figure! I did participate in a form of art on this trail though. Someone had started a small cairn (man-made pile of stones) with 2 rocks. These are usually intended to mark a path, a territory, or a specific site. I think this one was constructed to mark the site of a live Pinon tree, the state tree of New Mexico, because many of the pinons in the area have died due to the Bark Beetle. I added 2 more smaller stones to the top of the cairn. Stacked or balanced, cairns offer moments for reflection. They are meant to last. I hope this one stays there for years to come and that others will add on to it!

Love the colors-gray, purple, pastel green and salmon colored silts

To the left of the boulder you can see the Pinon tree. In front of the boulder you can see the cairn that someone made out of two rocks. I added 2 more to the top after this photo!

Trail art! :)

This was a very peaceful hike. It was quiet on the trail with the exception of the occasional neigh from the horses back at the ranch or the chirping of birds around us. We saw some hawks flying overhead and we paused to watch them soar. We only encountered a couple of other hikers at the very end of the trail. We had the pleasure of meeting a man named John at the top. He was by himself so he asked in his perfect British accent if we would take his picture. Jim said of course. Then he reached into his bag and grabbed a stuffed red lobster toy to pose with for the photo. I asked him for the story behind the lobster because of course I had to know. He found it in his girlfriend's mum's basement and when he or his girlfriend are traveling alone they bring the lobster and take pictures with it. He said it was much like the traveling gnome in the movie Amelie- which is one of my favorite movies of all time so I loved this idea. He said his lobster was international as he has traveled far and wide. He let me take a photo of the lobster and he took the same picture right after me because he said- "oh he does look rather cute posed like that." I really liked meeting John and his international lobster.

Hawk we watched soar above us

The international lobster! :)

The views at the end of the hike were breathtaking. In the distance you could see the Abiquiu Reservoir, Cerro Pedernal, Polvadora Peak (a dormant volcano in the North Jemez Mountains), the Chama River, the Sangre de Cristo Mountains and of course the Chimney Rock. We took a bunch of photographs with my camera and with our phones. In fact my phone has a little crack on the screen because when I handed it over to Jim to take a picture of me to send to my parents I let it go too soon. Jim didn't catch it in time and it hit a rock. The phone still worked so I didn't mind. Jim felt really bad about it and kept apologizing. I told him no worries. I think my phone has more character now and when I see the little crack it will remind me of this hike. Always stay positive! :)

A cool breeze came through as we sat up there. It felt great after hiking in the extreme heat. The wind really picked up at one point and it was a very spiritual feeling that both Jim and I felt- almost like the wind was a gift from mother nature to us for making the trek to see this special place. We enjoyed a snack, the cooling wind, and took in the stunning views. A large black bird was flying overhead and I could not tell if it was a raven or a crow. I lost sight of it and then it flew up from the large canyon below us and right over our heads. It was really a sight to see! Another couple was sitting on the rocks on the opposite side of us and I knew they saw the bird too so I asked if they knew what kind it was. The guy responded "a crow" in a real snarky kind of way. I looked at Jim and muttered "gee thanks" under my breath. We mocked his nasty way of saying " a crow" on the hike back to the car and I think it will forever be a funny joke to us. Anytime I see something and say "do you know what that is- I know Jim will reply "a crow" in that same tone. Not every person you meet on the trails is going to be friendly but you can still make the best out of an unfriendly interaction. :)

The "crow" flew up from this canyon. It was awesome! However, based on the size of the bird I am pretty sure after doing some research that what we actually saw was a raven.

On our way back down we saw my cairn was still there which made me happy. It would be neat to come back here in a few years and see it was still there. This was such a beautiful and special hike. I love that we saw art in a museum in Denver and then drove 7 hours to the very place the art was created and saw the land that inspired the paintings. It all came full circle when we took in those breathtaking views. It was quite the journey that I would love to take again in the future!

A tribute to the house I called home

28 years ago my dad and my grandpa built the log home I grew up in. I was barely 4 years old but I still remember watching my dad lay the stones in the living room that would line our walls behind the fireplace. I remember the cabinets and drawers being installed in the upstairs bathroom. This house would be my home for the next 20 years.

 

 

 I knew when I started school that my house was special because when my friends would come over they all thought it was so cool that I lived in a log cabin. I never saw it as an exotic home before that. It was just my house. It was a big house with a big backyard and a pond. My grandparents lived in the happy yellow house next door and my best friends were my neighbors. It was the perfect place to grow up.

We enjoyed our backyard year round. In the fall we raked leaves in large piles so we could jump in them. In the winter we built snowmen and snow forts to play in. In the spring we helped plant vegetables in the garden and watched the baby geese grow up. In the summer we swam in our pool,  caught frogs and turtles in the pond, and we even camped out in our tent at night. We always had fun. If I close my eyes and picture my backyard I see the red picnic table next to the big oak tree, my dad mowing the lawn on his tractor, my mom hanging our towels to dry on the clothesline, and my sisters and I with nets running around the pond. It makes me happy to remember it this way.

We hosted many family gatherings and parties at our house and everyone always ended up in our kitchen. It was cozy- red and white checkered designs and a beautiful bay window overlooking the pond that my mom would decorate with garland and lights year round. Growing up we ate dinner as a family every night around our small kitchen table. It was important to my parents that we all sat down together for at least one meal.  I think it helped shape who we are today as we all have a passion for food and a strong sense of family values. I appreciate this now more than ever.

Our finished basement was another entertaining place to hang out. We had a projector and 2 huge surround sound speakers so we could watch movies on our giant wall. This was a big hit with our friends. I remember when Apollo 13 came out on DVD my dad watched it numerous times and I swear it sounded like the shuttle was taking off from our basement! The whole house shook! My sisters and I often spent the night in the basement sleeping together on our pull out sofa watching movies all night and eating popcorn or whatever snacks my mom would make for us. It was the best!

Our bedrooms changed over the years. I shared a room with my big sister until we got to the age where it was no longer cool to share a room. She moved into the bedroom my dad added in the basement and stayed there until the year she moved to Colorado. She was the first to move out of the house. I remember waving goodbye to her in the driveway as she drove away in her Jeep until I couldn't see her anymore. I ran down the 13 stairs to her bedroom where we hung out together often, and cried my eyes out. I have never been good at saying goodbye. A few years later my grandpa passed away which was one of the hardest losses I have experienced in my life. My amazing grandma moved into our home shortly after that.  I gave her my room upstairs and took my sister's room in the basement. I love that I got to live with my grandma for almost a year in our house. I was the next one to leave.  I moved to Florida to finish school and to live with Jim (my boyfriend then, my husband now). It was my turn to be the one pulling away from the driveway, but I was still balling my eyes out. It was my first time living on my own and away from my family, my house, and everything familiar to me.

I came back as often as I could to visit. I loved coming down Grove Avenue and pulling into our familiar driveway every time. There were always happy faces to greet me. In 2008 Jim and I got married and even though we lived in Florida we decided to have our wedding in Illinois so everyone in our families could attend. I had my wedding photos taken in our backyard. People asked me when I came back where my beautiful pictures were taken and I was proud to tell them it was my home. 

More moves took place in 2012. Jim and I made another cross country move from Florida to Colorado- one that I am very happy we made! My little sister moved out of the house into her own beautiful home about 25 minutes away from my mom and dad. I was not there to witness her moving day but I know it was an emotional one for both her and my parents. It was just my mom, dad, and grandma left. Not too long after my little sister moved out my grandma became real sick. It was a battle she would not win. She passed away in November 2012. It was another huge blow to our family.  

My parents made the decision that it was time to move on. Their ultimate goal has always been to make it out west. After years of helping my sisters and I follow our dreams, it is time for them to focus on their own. It was not easy but they put our house up for sale at the beginning of the year. It is no surprise to me that it took less than 6 months to sell. They have maintained the house beautifully. Today it was my parents turn to say goodbye. 

I wish I could have made one last trip back, but maybe it is for the best. I will always remember the house the way it was when my family lived there. I loved everything about our log cabin, but it was the people in it that made it home. I love you Dad, Mom, Alyssa, and Kristina! Fare you well 1118 N. Grove Ave. You will always have a special place in my heart.

A Birthday Hike to Remember

Besides enjoying a delicious slice of key lime pie, I wanted to celebrate my 31st birthday by doing a more challenging hike. My brother-in-law Michael is an avid hiker so he was happy to be my hiking partner for a more difficult trail. Bear Peak is one of Boulder's most prominent mountains. The steep and unrelenting Fern Canyon trail leading to its 8,461 foot summit is strenuous, but so rewarding and satisfying when it is accomplished. 

We began at the National Center for Atmospheric Research (NCAR). When we arrived around 9:45 a.m. the parking lot was already filling up. As we were getting our packs out of the car and tightening up our shoe laces the guy parked next to us asked us for directions to the trailhead. He shared that he was also planning to hike to Bear Peak. He looked like he was an experienced hiker as he was in good shape and was carrying trekking poles. We told him the way we were planning to go and he thanked us and we told him to enjoy the hike. Little did we know at this point that we would cross paths with him many times again.

Michael and I made a quick stop in the NCAR lobby to use the restroom before heading out on the trail. I include this bit of information for 2 reasons. First, because it is always nice to know that there is a bathroom at a trailhead that you can use! Second, this was the first time both Michael and I had ever been inside the NCAR building. There are definitely some cool weather exhibits to see- you can even touch a cloud! However, we both found it humorous that our first time inside this architecturally beautiful and educational building was for the purpose of answering the call of nature. :) 

From NCAR we took the Walter Orr Roberts Trail west to the Dakota Trail. From the start, we saw large patches of yellow and purple wildflowers growing in the meadow. The combination of those colors with the bright green grass was so pretty. 

There was a pack of people moving slowly in front of us  so we politely made our way past them. We saw our friend from the parking lot doing the same. It was clear that the 3 of us were going to be keeping a good pace on the trail.  We climbed a ridge to a water tank before hiking into the valley and joining the Mesa Trail, turning left toward Fern Canyon. We walked southward and then west to begin an intense rock-stepping climb. This is when Michael turned to me and said "and now the fun begins."

We gained about 2000 feet for the next 1.3 miles. It was definitely an athletic challenge! Not only that, but the temperature was close to 90°F which made it even more of a battle. Luckily, most of the trail is shaded by trees. We drank a lot of water and stopped to catch our breath when it was necessary. Controlling your breathing is an important skill when hiking at higher elevations or on trails with steep inclines because it helps you conserve your energy. When I felt my heart racing and my breath going all over the place I would stop and take deep breaths through my nose and exhale through my mouth until I felt my heart rate slow down. Michael taught me this technique and it was very helpful. This is why I have been trying to do yoga too because it helps train me to be aware of my breath and how to control it.
 

About 2/3 of the way up we reached a spacious saddle which was a good resting area. We saw our friend from the parking lot again. Turns out he was visiting on business from New York and using his free time to enjoy the great outdoors, a luxury he does not have in the big city. He had a hiked a 13er (a mountain between 13,000 and 13,999 feet in height) the day before. Michael and I were impressed that he tackled another strenuous peak the very next day! We shared this with him and he laughed and said his legs were killing him. We told him he helped us set a good pace on the trail and he said we did the same for him. He headed onward toward the summit and we told him we would see him again at the top. It is always nice to meet and talk to fellow hikers on the trails. 

Michael said for the last leg of the hike before the summit we should try not to stop and just keep a slow, steady pace until the end. It sounded like a good idea to me. Then he took out a bottle of water from his bag, shook it,  and handed it to me. This bottle contained a packet of electrolytes. I took big gulps of this water and felt energized in a way I imagined similar to Popeye after he slammed his can of spinach! This little boost was much needed at this point.

We slowly made our ascent. Along the way we saw damage caused by the wildfires that took place last summer.  It was haunting and kind of scary to think we were in the very place I watched burning on the news.

Damage from the wildfires last summer

We continued on, following the sharp incline through the forest. I couldn't believe how many beautiful butterflies were flying around. In fact, I  got a little distracted by them.

Old World Swallowtail

I realized Michael got further ahead of me and I could not see him. I called out his name a couple of times before he heard me and said "over here." A small moment of panic passed me quickly. He waited until I caught up to him and we continued on. It was so steep in spots that I had to put my hands down to get up some of the more abrupt sections. After a grove of aspens, the trail winds its way to the western side of the summit ridge and pops out of the trees. The end was in sight! The last part of the hike was a steep scramble to the top. At this point I felt like Michael and I might as well have been Frodo and Sam making our way up Mt. Doom.

This was my first scramble and I am not going to lie- I was scared. One false step could be fatal mistake. I slowly and carefully made my way to the very top. My knees were shaking but I did it and was rewarded with amazing 360 degree views. To the east I could see NCAR and the High Plains, Denver to the south, Mount Audubon to the west, and the many peaks of  Rocky Mountain National Park to the north.

There were many other hikers at the summit, including our friend from New York. I smiled and waved as he and Michael had climbed their way even further across the peak. I, however, felt like I could not go any further from the happy rock I was standing on as my knees were shaking so badly. Michael realized this and made his way back to me. We high-fived, snapped some pictures, sat down, and enjoyed a well deserved rest and snack at 8, 461 ft. It was beautiful.

After about 20 minutes of hanging out at the summit, we decided to make our way back down. I was dreading this part. The whole way up the scramble I kept thinking, this is going to be fun coming down. The rock plates were so smooth and there were lots of places you could slip or lose your footing. Michael was a great confidence booster and coach. He told me to always have 3 points of contact with the mountain- meaning 2 hands and 1 foot or 1 hand and 2 feet. This was helpful.  It was a very slow and methodical descent. My brain and my body were so focused on each and every step. Michael was there holding his hand out for me if I needed it the whole way like a great big brother. When we finally reached the trail Michael went to give me a high-five but I went in for a big bear hug instead because that is what that moment called for! He laughed and I took a mental picture because this was a memorable moment of the hike that I know I will never forget.

From this point on we moved at a pretty decent pace, but there is no rushing this kind of descent. It is very steep and rocky so you have to be mindful of your footing at all times. Hiking is by no means just walking. It is both mentally and physically challenging. I did note on this trail that it seemed whenever I needed a rock or a tree limb for balance there was one there! It was kind of miraculous really and I was grateful for every little branch that was there to offer me assistance. It took us 2 hours to reach the summit and 1.5 hours to come back. We were very happy with our pace and time, especially considering the extreme heat!  My pedometer told me we hiked 7.22 miles round-trip and took 17,604 steps! Phew! 

Our feet were sore and exhausted. Michael offered that we dunk them in the Boulder Creek before we headed back home and I thought that sounded like a fabulous idea.

Boulder Creek

We drove to the Creek and the path was jammed with people sun-bathing, walking, biking, and tubing. We found a spot along the creek side near some rapids and plunged our aching feet inside the icy water. I could not believe people were tubing and swimming in the creek as the temperature was so cold! We could only keep our feet in for a few minutes before they felt numb! If felt great though and it was fun watching people come down and position themselves in their tubes for the upcoming rapids. We saw it all: panic, excitement, joy, people getting separated from their tubes, falling, flipping, and some glided by with ease. As we sat there ,we reminisced about our great journey up Bear Peak and made plans for future hiking adventures. It was a great birthday hike and one I will always remember with a smile.